This is just a quick post to share a wonderful revelation I had!!
Ever since I started sewing (as an adult) just under a year ago, I’ve been questing for the perfect fit. I learned I DEFINITELY needed an FBA, and most often, a waist adjustment, but I’ve been struggling with this elusive fit problem: back neckline gaping.
I managed to reduce this problem a bit by taking 1″ off Center Back at the top, tapering down and then trueing the grain, darts, etc. But the problem was still there.
So when I made the muslin for the Peony bodice and the gaping was still there, I vowed “ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!” and I turned to a post I read not too long ago, by Madalynne, on the relationship between front and back neck width.
In it she states that the back neck width should be 1/2″ wider than the front (so 1/4″ on the pattern). I didn’t know if this would help but I decided to try just in case. Lo and behold, my back neck width was 1.25″ wider than the front! So I re drafted the back neckline to be 1/4″ wider than the front, keeping the height and shoulder seam width the same.
As I said, I had no idea what would happen but to my shock, IT FIXED THE PROBLEM!!! Picture me in a bodice muslin, staring stupidly into the bathroom mirror in disbelief, then suddenly it clicked in that this was real and I did a ridiculous dance of joy!!!
I’m so grateful to Madalynne for the wealth of information she shares so freely with sewists like me who aspire to her level of greatness
Thanks Maddie!! You’re AWESOME!













It’s such a good feeling to solve a sewing problem like that. Go Symon! and Maddie!
I know right!! I’m so relieved! ^__^
why was i not following madalynne before? thanks for this as it’s a problem i often have and with the peony looming i might have to sort it out again!
Madalynne is a wealth of awesome information, and a lovely person as well! Glad I could pass on the love ^__^
happy dance! i’m glad you shared this, because i seem to have a neck-gape problem in some patterns, too.
I should note – there’s other reasons it can happen too; this front/back neck width rule only applies to close fitting necklines, from what I understand… but it’s worth a muslin, for sure!!!
Oh yay! I felt the same way when I realized I need a sway back adjustment via Gertie!
Yay! Hi fives for fitting revelations!!
Lady- you are awesome! This is a problem I have found lately and wasn’t sure where to start. Thank you!
And well done on rocking Peony!
My pleasure! Share the wealth, I say!!
Oh thank you for the link as I hadn’t discovered Maddie yet. Congrats on the newly fitting bodice too, of course.
You’re welcome! And thank you! ^__^
thats so awesome! thanks for sharing! funny how adding something can make it go away when it seemed like something needed to be taken away!
oh I did take away though! quite a bit in fact – i redrafted the back neck width to be 1″ narrower than how it started, in addition to the original 1″ removal of fabric at the top of center back
Sorry if I was unclear – I probably should have done drawings or something; I know I always get it more with visual reference ^__^
ah ok! maybe I didnt read properly. It was during my first morning coffee.
thanks for clarifying!
lol! I totally understand ^__^
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this is amazing – and yay for another vancouver sewing blogger! I started working through adjusting the back peony bodice yesterday, and I’m wondering – how did you change up the armscye after taking out width from the neck?
Maybe I’m missing something? after narrowing the back neck width, keeping the same height, and shoulder seam width, i find that the top of the armscye is wayyy moved in, and i think i have to re-draw?
Hi! So nice to meet you! And that’s awesome you’re from Vancouver too!!!
We should organize a meetup – I don’t know hardly anyone from here, oddly lol.
To be honest, I kind of winged it with the Peony, and didn’t end up adjusting the armscye until I adjusted the front bodice. I opened up the shoulder seam and smoothed the fabric outwards to the shoulders, then adjusted based on that. Kind of an unscientific method to say the least lol.
I’m still not sure I’ve managed to figure out adjustments for Colette patterns on me – even with the Peony, I’m still not satisfied with the fit. I’m thinking of doing a bodice block and comparing from there