Sew Colette 2.0 – Fitting the Peony Bodice

This is just a quick post to share a wonderful revelation I had!!

Ever since I started sewing (as an adult) just under a year ago, I’ve been questing for the perfect fit. I learned I DEFINITELY needed an FBA, and most often, a waist adjustment, but I’ve been struggling with this elusive fit problem: back neckline gaping.

I managed to reduce this problem a bit by taking 1″ off Center Back at the top, tapering down and then trueing the grain, darts, etc. But the problem was still there.

So when I made the muslin for the Peony bodice and the gaping was still there, I vowed “ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!” and I turned to a post I read not too long ago, by Madalynne, on the relationship between front and back neck width.

In it she states that the back neck width should be 1/2″ wider than the front (so 1/4″ on the pattern). I didn’t know if this would help but I decided to try just in case. Lo and behold, my back neck width was 1.25″ wider than the front! So I re drafted the back neckline to be 1/4″ wider than the front, keeping the height and shoulder seam width the same.

As I said, I had no idea what would happen but to my shock, IT FIXED THE PROBLEM!!! Picture me in a bodice muslin, staring stupidly into the bathroom mirror in disbelief, then suddenly it clicked in that this was real and I did a ridiculous dance of joy!!!

I’m so grateful to Madalynne for the wealth of information she shares so freely with sewists like me who aspire to her level of greatness :) Thanks Maddie!! You’re AWESOME! :D

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About symondezyn

graphic designer, illustrator, and artist of many skills... always striving towards new challenges and goals, and always with more projects than time to do them in!!

19 responses to “Sew Colette 2.0 – Fitting the Peony Bodice

  1. misscrayolacreepy

    It’s such a good feeling to solve a sewing problem like that. Go Symon! and Maddie!

  2. why was i not following madalynne before? thanks for this as it’s a problem i often have and with the peony looming i might have to sort it out again!

  3. happy dance! i’m glad you shared this, because i seem to have a neck-gape problem in some patterns, too.

    • I should note – there’s other reasons it can happen too; this front/back neck width rule only applies to close fitting necklines, from what I understand… but it’s worth a muslin, for sure!!! :D

  4. Oh yay! I felt the same way when I realized I need a sway back adjustment via Gertie!

  5. Lady- you are awesome! This is a problem I have found lately and wasn’t sure where to start. Thank you! :D :D And well done on rocking Peony!

  6. Oh thank you for the link as I hadn’t discovered Maddie yet. Congrats on the newly fitting bodice too, of course.

  7. thats so awesome! thanks for sharing! funny how adding something can make it go away when it seemed like something needed to be taken away!

  8. Pingback: Colette Peony – weed or blossom? | Sew Busy Lizzy

  9. aliesje

    this is amazing – and yay for another vancouver sewing blogger! I started working through adjusting the back peony bodice yesterday, and I’m wondering – how did you change up the armscye after taking out width from the neck?
    Maybe I’m missing something? after narrowing the back neck width, keeping the same height, and shoulder seam width, i find that the top of the armscye is wayyy moved in, and i think i have to re-draw?

    • Hi! So nice to meet you! And that’s awesome you’re from Vancouver too!!! :D We should organize a meetup – I don’t know hardly anyone from here, oddly lol.

      To be honest, I kind of winged it with the Peony, and didn’t end up adjusting the armscye until I adjusted the front bodice. I opened up the shoulder seam and smoothed the fabric outwards to the shoulders, then adjusted based on that. Kind of an unscientific method to say the least lol.

      I’m still not sure I’ve managed to figure out adjustments for Colette patterns on me – even with the Peony, I’m still not satisfied with the fit. I’m thinking of doing a bodice block and comparing from there :)

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