Just wanted to do a quick post on how I did the FBA on my Anna dress, in hopes it may help someone out there :)
Luckily I took photos of my process for my own records (which i actually forgot i did lol) so I can share them with you now! :)
(caveat: this assumes you already know how to do a standard FBA)
As per a regular FBA, use your HIGH BUST measurement to choose your size & trace. My personal method to determine how much of an adjustment I need is to hold the bodice tissue up to my body, aligning the side seam, and determine approximately how far away from my centre the centre fold is, at my bust point. Make sure to mark your bust apex on the tissue & draw in seam allowances.
So first, as you can see, our Anna bodice doesn’t have a side bust dart but waist tucks instead. First we cut off the raglan sleeve; we’ll add it back on later so keep that piece!
What we want to do is add room at the bust without changing the style of the bodice. To do that we have to add the side dart and then rotate it into the existing tucks. Let me show you.
Slash & spread the same way you would for a regular bodice:
(I have a kitty pattern weight lol)
Next, fill in all the gaps with scrap paper EXCEPT the bust dart you created. You have added space between the tucks so now just cut out the left tuck & slide it over where it used to be:
Now take the bottom left corner & rotate it up to close the gap created by the bust dart. Fill in the gap at the waist with scrap tissue.
Now here, if your waist measurement matches the pattern, you could maybe add another tuck to remove the extra width you added, or if it’s a small amount, just add a little to each of the existing tucks. I have a big ol’ waist so I can just leave mine as is & adjust my skirt pieces to match instead.
Now just tape the sleeve back on & you’re done!
Your bodice piece is a bit messy at this point so it’s nice to trace a new copy:
Then be sure to muslin your bodice & test it out before cutting into your precious fabric! :)
As you can see, mine worked out great!
Feel free to comment below & ask questions if you need clarification on anything. Happy sewing! :)