Pastille help & name this fabric!

So I’ve got as far as sewing up the bodice for my Pastille but I’ve got a problem: my armhole facings just will NOT stay inside! Argh. I am trying to figure out why and what I can do to fix it… any suggestions? Here’s a pic:


On another note, I spotted this fabric at my local store and nabbed it cause it looks and feels EXACTLY like silk charmeuse, but it was marked as ‘mixed fibers’ so it’s a mystery. I thought maybe it was a rayon blend cause rayon can sometimes feel quite silky, but I washed it and it didn’t seem to shrink, so… any ideas? lol


isn’t it gorgeous?? I am thinking a simple bias cut top and maybe a slip… I could live with a whole outfit made of this stuff! lol

About symondezyn

graphic designer, illustrator, and artist of many skills... always striving towards new challenges and goals, and always with more projects than time to do them in!! View all posts by symondezyn

14 responses to “Pastille help & name this fabric!

  • Joanne

    Ah have you understitched the facings? This is where you sew your seam allowance to your facings all the way around. Colette patterns have a great tutorial on it that’s right up your street – it even begins with: “Tired of your lining or facings peeking up from the inside of your garment? Understitching solves this problem! ” et voila! πŸ™‚

    • symondezyn

      thank you!!! I shall eagerly rip apart my bodice when I get home & try this! πŸ™‚

      • Joanne

        Oh no I’m hoping you won’t have to get the seam ripper out! Just sandwich your facing and seam allowance together and sew a line of stitches about 1/8 inch from the arm hole edge. Obviously don’t stitch into the bodice/fashion fabric!

        • symondezyn

          Ah but the side seams are sewn shut, along with the armpit part of the facing – I could probably make it work without ripping but it wouldn’t take that long even if I have to undo a bit πŸ™‚

          Thanks again for the tip!!! I’ll let you know how it goes! πŸ™‚

  • VickiKate

    What Joanne said! Also it’s quite curvy where it seams to be misbehaving the most, so are a few more notches required? No scientific basis for that, just a thought!

    • symondezyn

      yes, i had the same issue with the Meringue scallops; I had to add extra notching… I thought I did tons of it on this one but I could always add a few more for good measure – thanks! πŸ™‚

  • ooobop!

    I was going to suggest both the above and also trim the seam a bit too. I would also just hand tack the facings to the seams (side and shoulder) once you’ve pressed them flat. Then they shouldn’t pop out at in opportune moments! With regs telling what a fabric is. I have no failsafe way but if you burn a small piece of it (advise doing it over a baking tray!) you can tell if it is synthetic or natural. If its totally synthetic it will form a hard plasticky ball. If it forms ‘crunchy crumbs’ its generally a blend and if it burns to a fine ash then it is either silk or cotton, unless of course it smells like burning hair then the chances are it will be wool But unlikely to be wool in this case. I do this out of habit with all the charity shop fabric I buy. Its like a lottery win if I’ve paid Β£2 for 2m of 100% cotton and I once got lucky with some silk… oh little things certainly do please little minds!

    • symondezyn

      That is a great idea for fabric testing, I’m so gonna do that…. FLAME ON!! LMAO… here’s hoping i get home before the man, so he doesn’t wonder if I’m trying to burn the apartment down LOL

      I took Joanne’s advice and understitched the facings and that helps a lot but they’re still not lying flat enough inside and I don’t trust them, so I think I’m gonna do exactly that – tack them at the seams. Thanks! πŸ™‚

  • beautifullysewn

    If you really want to make them stay inside completely, and you don’t mind hand sewing I say catch stitch all the way. This stitch is the best! It doesn’t show up much on the other side. This is what I did with my crepe bodice and it works like a dream! I’ll put some pictures up as soon as the sun comes out!

    • symondezyn

      totally right? it takes forever, but yeah i did it on the Meringue and on my blue chiffon blouse too, and it is really quite satisfying when it’s done – i might end up doing that, thanks! πŸ™‚

  • beautifullysewn

    Also, I think you might be right about the mystery fabric being rayon, it might also be blended with polyester? I’ve had some poly rayon that feels divine and didn’t shrink!

  • Lavender

    Like everyone suggested, my first impulse is to say understitch! When I first started sewing, I didn’t know about understitching, and now can’t live without it. There are times when your machine can’t get into points for understitching (like the turn-down part of the Rooibos), so you can then do it by hand.

    Burn tests are fun πŸ™‚

    • symondezyn

      I know right? I totally burnt it up last night LOL now I wanna burn everything!! LOL – I almost burnt up a sample of silk I ordered online to make sure it was real, but I only have a yard of each colour so I was afraid if I did, that’d leave me without enough to make something with ^_^

      The understitching worked well, but I think I should have re-drawn the armhole facings after I did the FBA – duuuuhhhhh. I think that’s why I seem to have too much fabric on them. I’ll remember to do that next time! ^__^

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