Tag Archives: welt pockets


… or trousers, depending on who you are 😉

So far this year my making has primarily consisted of something I’ve previously more or less untried in: pants! 🙂 I am LOVING making pants!!! I’m really behind in my blogging so I’m catching up today by showing you three pairs, which I made between November of last year, and February of this year.

Pants are what I wear most often to work (and play) 3 seasons of the year and one of the things I despise shopping for most, because it’s super hard for me to find a good fit in a style I like, in fabric that’s quality, or even partially natural fibers. I end up spending WAY too much money on one semi-decent fitting pair that I subsequently wear to absolute shreds, and this is where I’ve been stuck for some time.

SO! Sewing & fitting skills to work!

The one futile attempt I made  previously (a couple years ago) met with sad failure due to my lack of experience and understanding, but this time, I was determined to make a decent fitting pair of trousers.

I decided on a Burda pattern based on Anne’s glowing reviews and numerous wonderful pairs, and with some tweaking and fiddling (and a LOT of head scratching at those instructions!) I managed to eke out a couple muslins, the last of which produced a fit I was really happy with.

I then took that tweaked pattern and some trouser weight wool I had in my stash and went to work. End result? Slightly askew waistband & messy welts aside, I have a pair of black wool dress trousers I absolutely love – the fit is awesome and I am truly proud of my fly insertion 🙂 As my mum (wisely) said, if the fit is good, the rest will come in time 🙂 (practice DOES make perfect after all!)

So I was hooked!! Next came my Holly jumpsuit. Armed with my new knowledge, I had little trouble fitting this one, and was pleased with the outcome. So much so I decided to make a pair of trousers from the pattern. However, I prefer my trousers to sit lower on my waist/hip so I slashed off 4.5″ from the top of each pants piece, then drafted a 1.5″ 2-piece waistband based on the top part (folding out the darts and adding seam allowance, and an overlap of course)

I did not use instructions for this one as most of it was invented by me anyway – instead I constructed them how it made sense to me, and when it came to the zipper I used a regular zip with a lapped installation, placing the lap from front to back as I thought it would be more flattering. Waistband and zipper turned out great, and the dropped waist was exactly what I was aiming for! Second win!! 🙂

I was getting pretty excited by this point – I mean never in my life have I had pants that fit this well – and in lovely wool no less – I was in heaven!

So it was time to test my mettle on a new animal – the skinny jean.

Friends, I’ll be honest – I am a boot cut gal through & through but I’ve been informed that’s not “cool” anymore lol (not that that’ll stop me) but if I was gonna go there, there was NO WAY I was going to attempt squeezing into a pair of skinny jeans in a public changing room; the only way it was happening was on MY terms!

Enter the Named Jamie jeans!! (already blogged here but forgot to add some construction/process details so I’ll g on a little more LOL) What a fun project! I was tempted by all the fun jeans threads but since my chosen denim was a soft, sleek black, I opted for a charcoal topstitching thread instead, for a subtler look. Also the only 4″ zipper had an ugly pull so I bought the next size up & resolved to find a way to shorten it. (yes, I’m particular lol)

I executed the exact same flat pattern adjustments I made on the previous 2 pairs, and made a quick muslin of the top part from a test stretch fabric before proceeding.

Putting both my machines to work made the construction process a cinch – the body of the jeans were done in one afternoon, as I used one machine for construction and the other for topstitching.

A quick try-on prior to fly installation revealed that the legs of these were VERY tight – luckily my denim was pretty forgiving – should have realized I would need to adjust for my massive muscular calves haha. Will definitely adjust next time lol and as Mrs M has pointed out, I may also need a thigh adjustment as well 🙂

Cons: Slightly wonky waistband – totally my fault (seriously, what is my problem with waistbands, anyway?) and an evil buttonhole; my machine was NOT cooperating with the buttonhole on the stretch fabric!
Pros: I made JEANS!!! Of the skinny variety! And they fit, are comfy and I love them!!

Next up on the roster was a pattern I’ve been itching to try out for some time: Vogue 1051. I love all the details of this pattern: the lower rise and wide waistband, the welt seam pocket in front and the welt with button closure in back. After making the (now) usual pattern adjustments I squawked out a quick shorts muslin & bravely (arrogantly?) proceeded to move on to the real deal. I say bravely because for these I had a special piece of fabric in mind: a lovely red Italian wool gifted to me by Andrea of Stitch Parade for the Christmas swap a couple (few?) years ago. I’ve been saving it until my skills were a bit better and I’m glad I did; I love these trousers, and I even eked out just enough for a bonus skirt!! (coming soon! LOL)

The construction was a bit more challenging than my previous pairs but I think I am getting better each time 🙂 I did have to unpick a couple times on the back pockets because I did a few upside down things lol, and ONCE AGAIN the waistband was a problem but not as bad as the black ones & I think I figured out why 🙂

And yet more trousers in the works but before that, a few more finished objects yet unblogged and coming soon, a HUGE project I’m finishing up now; my DREAM JACKET (or one of them… I love jackets!) and then (jumping on the most recent bandwagon) LINGERIE!

Colette Anise: My First Jacket!

Yeah!! I made a jacket!! I’m a real sewist now! Lol

First off, thank goodness for my stash, even as meager as it is! after losing my job, my fabric budget is pretty much nil, so I was only able to make the Anise with stuff I already had 🙂

The outer fabric came from the haul of remnants I scored from the OSF sale I blogged about (here). I wasn’t sure if I’d have enough so I cut the collar last in case I had to omit it. I was so happy it turned out I did, I BARELY had enough & was able to just squeak out every piece. Good thing too; it’s getting colder here & I wanted both the collar and the longer sleeves.

The underlining is cotton batiste, also from OSF.

The lining is rayon bemberg, from my stash.

This project required lot of cutting! My fabric was so hard to cut I needed two hands, even using my best scissors, so I switched to my rotary and it went smoothly from there.

Hand basting the underlining was a slow process as well, so I did it in two stages.

I’ve never sewed this many layers of thick fabric at once; sewing was interesting but my old sewing machine is a super trooper & handled it with ease. The really thick parts, I hand cranked lol. The only tricky bit was the button holes; I’ll probably hand sew them next time, as I had to do them freehand due to the thickness of the fabric making my buttonhole foot useless.

I know this is a swing jacket but I knew if I didn’t do an FBA and add a bust dart, this style would be super unflattering on me. So I did the muslin & was pleased to see that even with the addition of darts, on me, the jacket was the shape it was supposed to be without them.

I made an 8 with a 2″ FBA. The only other adjustment I made was to lengthen the sleeves. The fit of the final jacket is looser in areas than I expected but I’ve also been losing weight so that could be partly why.

Thanks to Sarai’s informative posts for the sewalong (which I followed after the actual sewalong was over lol), I learned about turn of cloth in making the collar. I also did my first welt pockets, and my first full lining!!



<img src="https://symondezyn.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/20121203-131324.jpg" alt="20121203-131324.jpg"

As jackets/coats are pretty much my favourite garment type, I am excited to have finished my first one, and I will DEFINITELY be making many more


Please excuse my wrinkled disheveled look – I promise you, my collar lies flat and it’s smooth and even; this is just me, tired after a crazy morning of shopping! lol